EZdrinking

Spirit Reviews, Tasting Events and Consulting

Searching for the world's best drinks and what makes them extraordinary. EZdrinking is a drinks blog by Eric Zandona that focuses on distilled spirits, wine, craft beer and specialty coffee. Here you can find reviews of drinks, drink books, articles about current & historical trends, as well as how to make liqueurs, bitters, and other spirit based drinks at home.

Filtering by Category: Spirit Reviews

Review: New Riff Kentucky Straight Bourbon Bottled in Bond

Sample bottle provided by New Riff Distilling

AT A GLANCE

  • Owned, Distilled and Bottled by: New Riff Distilling

  • Still Type: Column

  • Aged: 4 years in 53-gallon toasted and charred new oak barrels

  • Spirit Type: Bourbon

  • Mash Bill: non-GMO- 65% Corn,30% Rye, 5% Malted Barley

  • Strength: 50%

  • Price: $42

Ken Lewis, a Kentucky liquor retailer founded New Riff Distilling in 2014, to create a new expression of sour mashed, bottled in bond Kentucky straight bourbon and rye with out chill filtration. Because New Riff is family run it allows them the flexibility to place the pursuit of excellent whiskey over pure commercial success.

Their bourbon is distilled from a high-rye bourbon mash, which is aged for a minimum of four years and bottled in bond.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The whiskey has as nice aroma of oak, vanilla, cinnamon, followed by light fruit notes like pomegranate and sweet cherries.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is light on the tongue and has a wonderful flavor of caramel, red apple, oak and a touch of spice both from the rye and from the barrel.

Finish: On the finish there is a slight bitterness from the oak tannins, that fades into a soft and sweet sensation of baking spice and vanilla.

Conclusion: New Riff is an excellent whiskey with a classic bourbon profile that is sure to make any fan of the spirit happy to add it to their liquor cabinet. If you do not mind a little heat, drink neat, otherwise it will work well on the rocks or in a number of cocktails such as an old fashioned or manhattan.

Review: Ron Zacapa Centenario 23

Bottle purchased by EZdrinking

At a Glance

  • Distilled and Owned by: Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala

  • Still Type: Column Still

  • Spirit Type: Colum Distilled Rum

  • Age Statement: NAS

  • Added Sugar: 15g/liter

  • Strength: 40% ABV

  • Price: $38-$45

Tasting Notes

Nose: On the nose there are sweet aromas of sugar cane, chocolate milk, and vanilla.

Palate: On the palate the rum tastes of milk chocolate and caramel, similar to Rolos. The rum is sweet and soft on the palate with full body.

Finish: On the finish there is a lingering sweetness that tastes fruity like stewed apples and vanilla. The rum has a smooth and long finish of milk chocolate and caramel with zero heat from the alcohol. Then at the very end there is a hint of oak the is otherwise dominated by sweetness.

Conclusion: Ron Zacapa Centenario 23 is a very sweet and easy drinking rum largely due to being column distilled and getting a decent dose of added sugar. While older bottles seemed to imply the rum was 23 years old, they have since clarified that the rum is a blend of various ages from their solera system. With 15g per liter of added sugar it is no surprise that it is so sweet but, it is definitely more balanced than others in this category. If you like sweeter rums with notes of chocolate and vanilla then this will be a hit. However, if you are looking for more expressive rums similar to those of Jamaica or Barbados then Zacapa 23 will not meet your expectations.

Review: Modern Ancient Grains Project Bolita Belatove Oaxacan Pink Corn Whiskey

Free sample bottled provided by Workhorse Rye. Photo by Rob Easter

AT A GLANCe

  • Owned by: Workhorse Rye

  • Distilled at: Sutherland Distilling Co. in Livermore, CA

  • Still Type: Hybrid Still

  • Spirit Type: Corn Whiskey

  • Age Statement: NAS

  • Strength: 50%ABV

  • Price: ~$44 (375ml) from Modern Ancient Grains Project

The Modern Ancient Grains Project is a product of the experience and ethic of Rob Easter, distiller and owner of Workhorse Rye. For this bottling Easter used 100% Bolita Belatove pink corn to make this whiskey. Bolita Belatove is grown in the central valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico, and just six years ago it was in danger of going extinct. However, interest from high end restaurants and epicureans have helped to sustain this beautiful variety of corn. In Zapotec belatove is the name for the maguey worm (technically a caterpillar) that lives off agave plants. It is not know why the corn and worm share this name but it might have something to do with their similar hue.

One of the standard refrains of conventional bourbon is that heirloom corn does not have enough starch and is therefore not as efficient as the standard #2 yellow dent corn. However, Easter’s corn mash was 22 brix! It is not uncommon for wine grapes to be harvested between 21 and 25 brix so the belatove definitely has enough potential. Once fermented, Easter double distilled the corn mash and aged the spirit in a mix of second fill 53 gallon barrels and third fill 25 gallon barrels.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: First thing you immediately notice is that this is a young corn whiskey. It has that typical note or yeast and cream corn. But as you sit with the whiskey it begins to reveal more complex aromas of stone fruit and cranberries, with just a hint of vanilla. There is also a nice light minerality to the nose that is very inviting.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is light and a little hot but do not be dissuaded, it is packed full of flavor. On the tip of your tongue you first notice the earthy character that comes from the corn and yeast, but as the whiskey moves across your tongue it completely transforms. Mid-palate there is bright explosion of fruit flavors like a fresh compote made from blackcurrant and tart blueberries. And, as the spirit makes its way to the back of your palate you notice the oak with just a hint of vanilla and caramel.

Finish: The finish is long and warm with notes of milk chocolate and peanut butter. The finish has no bitterness and yet it has this great dance between sweet, salty, and savory that calls you back for another sip.

Conclusion: This corn whiskey from Rob Easter is like nothing else I've had before. He has shown a new approach to whiskey that is focused on the flavor potential unique grains and should be sought after by those looking for delicious whiskeys unencumbered by tradition. In my experience, corn whiskeys can be challenging. Unaged, they can be dominated by a somewhat musty and funky character from the fermented corn, and in a barrel, it is easy for the spirit to be overwhelmed by the oak and just taste like wood. But Easter has found the perfect balance of the two. The character of the heirloom corn mingled with the used oak has created something truly unique and special. The elegance and restraint of this spirit reminds me of how wine writer Jon Bonné described "New California Wine" that was focused on allowing the character of the fruit and the terrior to shine through. This spirit is not your average corn whiskey but a witness to the incredible flavor potential of heirloom corn and the great attention the distiller brought to this spirit. If you are a traditional bourbon drinker or a fan of Mellow Corn, this may be outside your comfort zone. However, if you are fond of restrained wines or light bodied malt whiskeys you may be open to enjoy this different and delicious spirit.

Review: Uncle Nearest 1856 Premium Whiskey

Free sample bottled provided by Uncle Nearest.

AT A GLANCE

  • Blended and Owned by: Uncle Nearest, Inc

  • Distilled by: (Most Likely) George A. Dickel & Co.

  • Still Type: Column Still

  • Spirit Type: Whiskey

  • Age Statement: NAS

  • Strength: 50% ABV

  • Price: $45-$65

Uncle Nearest 1856 Premium Whiskey debuted in July 2017 to honor the memory of Nathan Green, the freed slave who was the first master distiller for Jack Daniel's Whiskey. Nathan went by the nickname Nearest and was called uncle by those who new him well.

Green was born in Maryland around 1820. At that time, Maryland had one of the largest populations of free blacks in the US so it is not yet know if Green was born a slave or born free and forced into slavery. However, by 1850 Green was living in Lincoln County, Tennessee as a slave and working as an experienced distiller for Dan Call, a Methodist preacher who owned a distillery near Lynchburg. Around that time, a young boy named Jasper Daniel, began working on Call’s farm and Call instructed Green to teach Daniel how to make whiskey. After the Civil War Daniel and Call restarted the distillery as partners and hired Green to be the head distiller. Eventually Daniel bought out Call’s shares and renamed the distillery Jack Daniel’s, after himself. In Daniel’s papers he clearly gave credit to Green for teaching him how to make whiskey and Green continued to work for him until 1884, when Green disappears from the historical record. Since then, decedents of Green have continued to work for Jack Daniel’s. Three of his sons, two of his grandsons and even a great-great-granddaughter who works on the bottling line for Jack Daniel’s today.

In 2016, Fawn Weaver, an author and real estate investor first read the story of Nathan Green in a New York Times article and felt compelled to find out all she could about him. She moved to Lynchburg, TN and began searching archives for evidence of Green and eventually made contact with his family. All told, Weaver collected about 10,000 documents on Green, established a foundation in his name and donated many of them documents and artifacts about his life to the National Museum of African American History and Culture.

However, even all of that work would have meant that the story of Green would have remained a footnote in the long history of American whiskey. Determined to share his legacy with the world and to have his name spoken of in the pantheon of whiskey legends such as Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, Jim Beam, E.H. Taylor and Jack Daniel’s, Weaver decided to create a whiskey company and brand in his honor. At present, Uncle Nearest is made from purchased whiskey, most likely from George Dickel, though that has not been corroborated by the brand’s marketing materials. That being said, the Nearest Green Distillery is currently under construction in Shelbyville, TN and will eventually distill and age the whiskey that goes into the bottle.

For now, Uncle Nearest 1856 Premium Whiskey is said to be a blend of whiskies from Tennessee aged between 8 and 14 years old and that were mellowed using the Lincoln County Process. It is not clear if the brand chose to not label Uncle Nearest a Tennessee Whiskey or if there is some technical reason that it could not be labeled as such. Either way the decision is somewhat confusing given Green’s strong connection to both the state and Lincoln County, whose eponymous process is key to defining Tennessee Whiskeys uniqueness. All of that being said, Nathan Green has earned his well deserved place among the legends of American Whiskey and Uncle Nearest has done a good job at telling his story.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The nose has a very nice sweet aroma of caramel, corn bread and charred oak. At 100 proof you notice the alcohol but it does not overpower the aromas. As the whiskey breaths you get a lovely floral perfumed aroma of white peaches and a mix of roses and irises.

Palate: On the palate the whiskey is slightly sweet and has a medium body. As the whiskey crosses your tongue there is a pleasantly sweet fruit flavor mixed with nutmeg followed by a hint of chocolate caramel. These brighter flavors are supported by a solid oak character, which has a very slight greenness to it that overall provides a nice earthy balance to the spirit.

Finish: On the finish the whiskey is soft with a light fruity character of raspberries, and cotton candy, underlined with a mellow woodiness.

Conclusion: Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey is a very enjoyable whiskey and does a good job of honoring the memory of its namesake. At 50% ABV the spirit is soft enough to sip neat and the flavor is robust enough to carry through an old fashioned, manhattan or any other classic whiskey cocktail.

Review: Paul John Nirvana Indian Single Malt Whisky

Free sample bottled provided by Paul John.

AT A GLANCE

  • Distilled & Owned by: John Distilleries in Goa, India.

  • Still Type: Pot Still

  • Spirit Type: Indian Single Malt Whisky

  • Age Statement: NAS

  • Strength: 40% ABV

  • Price: $30-$40

Since 2012, Paul John has offered three core single malts and a number of limited expressions, but in April 2019, they added Nirvana as the fourth member of their core range. Nirvana is an unpeated Indian single malt whisky made from a blend of second and third fill bourbon barrels that have aged for a minimum of three year before being bottled at 40% ABV.

Paul John whiskies are made at the John Distilleries in Goa, on the west coast of India. And, from 1992 until 2012 ,Paul John only sold what is known as Indian-made foreign liquor (IMFL) which are column still cane spirits designed to mimic international liquors such as blended Scotch. IMFLs are incredibly popular in their home market and John Distilleries flagship brand Original Choice is the 7th best selling whisky in the world with more than 11 million cases sold in 2018.

However, Paul John’s Nirvana is made like their other single malts, starting with six row barley grown in northern Indian. Single Malt Scotch is almost exclusively made from two row barley because is has a higher starch content, which results in more alcohol. But Paul John believes that the higher fiber and protein content of the six row barley helps create the fruity, floral and honey ester charters found in their whiskies. Once the barley is malted and fermented, it is distilled twice in large copper pot stills: first in the 12,000 liter wash still and then again in the 6,000 liter spirit still.

Image from Paul John

After distillation the malt spirit is aged in one of Paul John’s two barrel warehouses. A 4000 barrel underground warehouse, which due to the cooler temperature and lower humidity, slows the maturation and the lost angel’s share. And a 6000 barrel above ground warehouse which is exposed for greater temperature fluctuations and higher humidity which speeds up maturation and causes the barrels to lose more alcohol. Having two warehouses with two different climates give Paul John a wide range of flavors that can be blended to produce different expressions.

TASTING NOTES

Nose: The nose is a fantastic combination of yeasty malt and tropical fruits. As you enjoy the aroma there are notes of pineapple, light honey, ripe green pears, and gram cracker. It is a beautiful aroma that lingers in the glass and meant to be enjoyed.

Palate: When you first take a sip, the whisky is very bright and crisp on the tongue similar to a minerally chardonnay. Mid palate you notice flavors of passion fruit and honeysuckle as well as light tannins from the oak barrels.

Finish: On the finish, the whisky lingers on your tongue with warm notes of malt, honey gram cracker, and under ripe banana with just a hint of oak.

Conclusion: Overall Paul John Nirvana is a wonderful single malt that is light, bright, fruity and exudes vitality. From the fist sip I was completely enamored with this whisky and I am blown away at how affordable it is for the quality of the whisky. If you like malt whisky and have been looking for a great everyday kind of single malt that tastes great and won’t kill your wallet, Nirvana is it. At only $30 a bottle this is a great single malt that can be sipped neat, or makes a fantastic Highball.