Results from DIY Spirit Aroma Kit

It worked!

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Some time ago I looked at using an aroma kit to help improve my ability to pick out and identify aromas in the spirits that I drink. You can buy an aroma kit but those tend to start around $150 and go up to $450, which is a bit steep for me. And, given the fact that some of the customer reviews are less than stellar, I decided to try and make my own kit. I ended up making 13 bottles with common gin botanicals all for less than $30!

After letting the botanicals to macerate for a month of so, the aromas were still clear but I did notice one issue. While I only filled the bottles 2/3 with botanicals, some of the more fibrous botanical like cardamon, anise seeds, and licorice root absorbed a lot of the vodka and swelled to completely fill the bottle where as more woody botanicals like cinnamon and star anise stayed the same size. So if you make your own aroma kit, make note of which botanicals might be more absorbent than others.

Besides this absorbency issue, the aroma samples worked well. From time to time I would sit down with the bottles, unscrew the lid, and smell the aroma moving the opening back and forth between each nostril.

Being able to pick out and describe aromas in spirits has a lot to do with memory. Our eyes or ears take in information from specific wave lengths of light or sound and those are interpreted by our brains as colors and pitch. But with smell, little particles of the things we eat, drink, or inhale, touch receptors that extend from the olfactory bulb in our brain and we interpret that information based on our memory. It is believed that this link between smell and memory helps humans to avoid eating spoiled food or drinking contaminated water. And, this smell memory may have helped our hunter-gatherer ancestors to remember high calorie foods like fruits that are higher in natural sugar and vitamins.

In my experience, interpreting aromas exists on three levels.

1. Is the aroma good or bad?

2. Is the aroma familiar or unfamiliar?

3. Can I describe or name the aroma with a word or words?

I believe using my kit did help me move some of the aromas from the second level of, is it familiar to the third level of, it is familiar and I my brain remembers the name of that smell. If you are interested in improving your smell memory, making and occasionally using a spirits aroma kit will help.

How to Make Kummel at Home

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Kummel, also spelled Kümmel, is a botanical liqueur flavored primarily by distilling caraway and then sweetened. But, as it turns out, you do not need a still to make a fairly simple and delicious version of kummel at home.

Back in March when states began issuing stay at home orders I decided it was time to start making some liqueurs. I started simple with limoncello and pompelmocello (grapefruit), but I decided I wanted to try something a little more of a challenging. That’s when kummel came to mind.

Since I don’t have a still, I started looking for kummel recipes online that use maceration (soaking botanicals in alcohol) instead. While Google came trough and gave me some results, none of the online recipes were exactly what I was looking for. However, I came across a note about an old French distillers recipe book that included kummel. There was no mention of a title or author so it took awhile to locate but eventually I found the source: Culture de la Vigne: Traitement Pratique des Vins: Vinification - Distillation by Raimond Boireau (1876). The book includes five recipes for kummel (pp 451-453): One with just caraway, one with caraway essence, and three that use caraway with a small amount of other spices. Based on these recipes I decided to make one bottle (750ml) of about 40% ABV kummel that was 30 parts caraway, 2 parts coriander and 1 part fennel.

Recipe for EZ Homemade Kummel

Ingredients

• 310 ml liters of 190 Proof Everclear (95% ABV) = 252.96 g

• 25 g caraway

• 1.69 g coriander

• 0.85 g fennel

• 500 ml water

• 500 ml sugar

If you live in an area where 190 Everclear is not available you can also use 400 ml of 151 Everclear (75.5% ABV), or 600 ml of 100 proof vodka (50% ABV) with the same amount of spices. The maceration won’t be as intense and you will not need as much simple syrup to bring it down to proof.

Directions

• Place a small glass container (a pint size mason jar will work) on your kitchen scale and weight out 252.96 grams of Everclear and put aside.

• Place a small bowl on your kitchen scale and weigh out 25 grams of caraway. Dump the caraway into the alcohol and repeat with the coriander and fennel.

• Once the spices and alcohol are in the same container, seal it up, give it a shake and let sit for 3 days out of direct sunlight. The alcohol will extract flavors and some color out of the spices, and if you want to give it a shake once a day, go for it.

• Combine the sugar and water into a small pot and stir on medium heat until the sugar is completely dissolved into the water. Let cool, pour the syrup into an empty wine/liquor bottle and place it in the refrigerator until needed. This will make more than you need for the kummel but you can save the leftover simple syrup for making cocktails.

• After 3 day filter the spices from the alcohol and pour the infused spirit into a clean 750 ml bottle that has a cap or closure. You can filter the spices with a simple mesh strainer or a coffee filter. Since I have a V60 for making coffee at home I use that. If you use a paper or cloth filter, remember to wet it before hand, or the filter will soak up you alcohol.

• Fill the bottle of infused spirit with about 440 ml of your premade simple syrup, close the bottle and let rest for 1 day in your refrigerator.

Results

Initially the kummel has lots of flavor from the spices, it is very sweet and has some sharpness from the alcohol. However, the longer the kummel sits the more that alcohol smooths out. If you have a sweet tooth, you will like the recipe as is but for me the next time I make it, I will only use 3/4 or half as much sugar.

As for its taste it has a great caraway flavor that reminds me of eating rye bread with a nice lemon zest from the coriander, and a slight fennel kick. Serve it neat direct from the freezer, use it in cocktails like the Old Fashioned (with bourbon or rye), the Silver Bullet or my favorite, a simple Kummel & Soda in a tall glass full of ice.

Rundown of ADI's 2018 Judging of Craft Spirits

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In 2007, when the American Distilling Institute held its first annual spirits competition there were less than 100 craft distilleries in the US and the Judging awarded just 12 medals. Eleven years later the number of craft distillers in the US has grown over 1000% and the number of small and independently owned distilleries are multiplying around the world. ADI’s Judging of Craft Spirits continues to track this growth and the maturing of our industry, receiving 1003 spirits from 16 countries spread across five continents. Of those entered, 9 spirits earned Double Gold Medals, 58 earned Gold Medals, 223 earned Silver Medals and 434 earned Bronze Medals.

The mission of the ADI competition is to promote excellence where it is found and help distillers hone their craft by providing unbiased feedback from our expert judges. With these goals in mind, the Judging runs a blind competition where each entry is evaluated solely on quality of the spirit in the glass.  Seasoned stewards spend 5 days, sorting and flighting spirits by class, category, and sub-categories, taking into consideration factors such as ABV, intensity, and length of maturation, if any. During the two and a half days of our competition, the 10 panels of four judges were asked to evaluate about 50 spirits a day, about half the rate of other competitions. We do this to mitigate against plate fatigue and to give them time to give constructive feedback about each spirit.

Each year the competition offers an interesting insight into the current market of craft spirits. Whiskey remained king in total number of entries comprised mostly of bourbon, rye and malt whiskeys. However, the number of whiskeys finished in a secondary cask from craft distillers has increased substantially. For the second year running, gin replaced vodka as the second largest class overall, with aged gin accounting for almost 20% of all gin entries. And, as may have predicted, brandy is making a significant comeback. In 2018, the number of brandy entries grew by 366% over 2017! A few other small categories, such as honey spirits and spirits made from agave syrup also grew. One of most surprising declines came from Moonshine which shrank by 60% compared to 2017. Of course, it hard to know if the number of moonshines in the market are decreasing though at a minimum it seems like the marketing of some of these are shifting from moonshine to corn whiskey, for those that qualify, and from flavored moonshine to liqueurs.

As always, ADI is grateful to the stewards, judges, and all those who entered who have made the Judging of Craft Spirits the worlds largest spirits competition dedicated to craft spirits. A full list of the 2018 awards can be found here. 

First appeared in Distiller (Summer 2018): 40

Tucked into the Tax Bill is a Short-Term cut for Distillers

On Friday, December 22, 2017 President Trump signed the $1.5 trillion tax bill also know as "H.R.1 - An Act to provide for reconciliation pursuant to titles II and V of the concurrent resolution on the budget for fiscal year 2018." Tucked into this massive tax bill was an amendment that reduced the federal excise tax (FET) on distilled spirits but, only for 2018 and 2019. Sometime around December 14th the Senate added an amendment to the tax bill that proposed changing this single FET to a graduated tax.  Before 2018, when a distillery sold distilled spirits to a distributor or a state liquor agency, the distillery paid the US Treasury an excise tax of $13.50 for every proof gallon (a PG is one gallon of spirit at 50% ABV). 

However, starting January 1, 2018 the FET for distilled spirits is now broken down into 3 brackets.

Federal Excise Tax for Distilled Spirits. Graph created by EZdrinking. Not to scale.

Bracket 1: $2.70/PG for the first 100,000 PG; Bracket 2: $13.34/PG up to 22,130,000 PG sold; Bracket 3: $13.50/PG for anything above that. This graduated tax was most recently proposed in the "Craft Beverage Modernization and Tax Reform Act of 2017" as a means to provide small distillers with a tax break and bring the FET for distilled spirits in line with the discounts that small breweries and small wineries receive. But for some reason, when the Senate added the FET reform to the tax bill, it stipulated that the tax reduction would only last though 2019. Though, according to Mark Shilling, a distilling consultant and current president of the American Craft Spirits Association, it is likely to be reauthorized at the end of 2019. At the end of each year Congress reauthorizes a number of tax laws that are set to expire such as the cover-over subsidy which benefits rum distillers in Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. That being said, Shilling stated that distillers will need to reach out to their representatives in Fall 2019 to stress the importance of reauthorizing the new FET structure. 

The other interesting question about the FETs for distilled spirits is what its economic impact will be. We will not know for certain until next year at the earliest however, we can make an estimate. According to TTB in 2016, all Distilled Spirits Producers (DSPs) generated about $4.185 billion in revenue for the US Treasury. If we apply the new FET system to the TTBs data of average taxable removals in proof gallons,  the Treasury would have received $4.088 billion, a difference of $97 million or 2.34%. This is minuscule in relation to the overall Federal budget.

About half of the savings will go to DSPs selling less than 100k PG which will have a significant impact on the large number of small distilleries around the country. With these savings, most small distillers have already indicated that they plan to invest the money in new equipment, and or more employees which will have ripple effects locally and nationally from new sources of income tax, payroll tax, and sales tax just to name a few.

EZdrinking Top 10 Whiskies of 2017

Happy New Year! 2017 was a banner year for me. I was commissioned to write a book about bourbon called The Bourbon Bible which will be published in May 2018, and because of the book and my other spirit reviews, I tasted well over 120 whiskies in 2017. With all of these under my belt I felt like a top 10 list was in order. Now not all of these were newly released in 2017 but for many, it was my first time drinking them.

10. J&B Rare Blended Scotch Whisky

J&B Rare Blended Scotch Whisky is a great value blend that is a little too sharp to drink neat but works great on the rocks, or in a highball. Check this out of you are looking for a good blended Scotch with a bit more smoke and malt character then Johnnie Walker Red Label.

9. George Dickel Classic No.8 Sour Mash Tennessee Whiskey

George Dickel Classic No.8 Sour Mash Tennessee Whiskey has nice notes of apple cider and pear with a light aroma of caramel and oak lingering in the background. The finish is soft sweet and lingers with long notes of caramel, cinnamon, oak and pear. This is a very nice light flavor Whiskey that is slightly sweet and fruity. Excellent neat and works great in a tall refreshing cocktails.

8. Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey

Wyoming Whiskey Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey has rich notes of caramel, oak, and cinnamon followed by flavors of plums, and peaches. After swallowing, the whiskey is sightly warm in the mouth with a lingering note of stone fruit and vanilla. This is a very fine example of a craft bourbon that should be drunk neat or used in a cocktail.

7. Nelson's First 108 Tennessee Whiskey

Nelson's First 108 Tennessee Whiskey is a special release from the first 108, 30-gallon barrels of their self-distilled and aged spirit. The whiskey is incredibly complex with notes of caramel, vanilla, raisin, prunes, nutmeg, cocoa, tobacco, and rich black earth. This is a complex and interesting Tennessee Whisky that shows incredibly promise for the whiskeys that are likely to come from Nelson's Green Brier.

6. Waitsburg Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey

Waitsburg Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey is an aromatic and flavorful bourbon with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, creme brulee, and rum raisin followed by a touch of oak for balance. Overall this is a big sweet bourbon that is completely drinkable at 58% ABV and definitely a whiskey for those who like sweeter bourbons.

5. Joseph Magnus Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Joseph Magnus Straight Bourbon Whiskey envelops you with deep and complex notes of fruit cake, dried fruit, baking spice, candied orange peel, dark cherries and raisin balanced by tobacco, leather and oak. This is a really fantastic and well balanced bourbon.

4. Johnnie Walker Wine Cask

Johnnie Walker Wine Cask is a really fruity and approachable expression of Johnnie Walker and is a really nice addition to the traditional lineup. This whisky also demonstrates how much character can come through the cask selection. For less than $30 this is a deal.

3. Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey has rich notes with dark aromas of vanilla, dried fruit, and tobacco, balanced with nice wood notes of cedar and oak accompanies by hints of smoke and dark chocolate. This is an excellent bourbon especially at only 3 years old. It is rich in flavor, incredibly smooth at 94 proof and well worth the investment if you are looking to splurge a little.

2.Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 23 Years

Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 23 Years is incredibly rich and concentrated with notes of dried fruit, rum raisin, cherries, plum, baking spice, vanilla and caramel, followed by a light bright note of alcohol. This is a rich and decadent bourbon that is both very sweet and well balanced with dryness from the oak. Definitely drink this neat and savory the rich complexity that comes from 23 years of developing and concentrating flavor in a an oak barrel.

1. Kings County Bottled in Bond Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Kings County Bottled in Bond Straight Bourbon Whiskey is rich and decadent with notes of fig, dried fruit, caramel, vanilla and baking spice. the whiskey very smooth with a medium body and slightly sweet on the palate. The finish is long and dry though there is a sense of sweetness from the lingering flavor of vanilla that is intermixed with oak and tobacco. This is a very complex bourbon that is packed full of flavor. Kings County had come into their own and are no longer dominated by small barrel flavors. Drink neat to experience all it's flavor and intensity, or add a little water to soften the alcohol slightly.